Parabuthus transvaalicus (Transvaal Thicktail Scorpion) care guide

Parabuthus transvaalicus (Transvaal Thicktail Scorpion) Care Guide

The Parabuthus transvaalicus, commonly known as the Transvaal Thicktail Scorpion, is a large, imposing scorpion native to southern Africa. Known for its robust build and notably thick tail (metasoma), it's a fascinating species in the arachnid hobby. However, its impressive appearance comes with a significant caution: Parabuthus transvaalicus possesses potent venom and is capable of spraying it as a defense mechanism. This species is strictly for experienced scorpion keepers who understand the risks involved and prioritize safety above all else.

If you are considering keeping a Parabuthus transvaalicus, it is crucial to be fully prepared and knowledgeable. This guide provides essential information for responsible care.

Important Disclaimer: Venom & Safety

Parabuthus transvaalicus venom is medically significant and can cause severe pain, localized swelling, and potentially systemic effects depending on the individual's reaction and the amount of venom injected. Furthermore, their ability to spray venom is a unique defense that requires extreme caution during any interaction with the enclosure. Handling this scorpion is strongly discouraged and unnecessary. Always use long tools (forceps, brushes) for maintenance and secure the enclosure meticulously. Research local laws regarding keeping potentially dangerous invertebrates before acquiring one.

Enclosure Setup

Type: A glass terrarium or aquarium with a secure, well-ventilated lid is essential. These scorpions are escape artists, so a heavy, locking lid is paramount. Avoid screen-top lids unless modified to prevent digging/climbing out.

Size: A single adult Parabuthus transvaalicus requires an enclosure of at least 10 gallons (approx. 20x10x12 inches) or equivalent space. Wider is generally better than taller to allow for burrowing and movement space.

Substrate: This species thrives in arid conditions. Use a thick layer (4-6 inches) of substrate suitable for burrowing. Good options include:

Play sand (ensure it's washed and dried)

Coconut fiber (fine grade, kept dry)

A mix of sand and peat moss or coco fiber (approx. 70/30 sand/other)

Commercial arid reptile/scorpion substrate mixes.

Hides: Providing hides is crucial for their security and stress reduction. Offer multiple options, such as:

Cork bark rounds or flats

Half logs

Flat rocks (ensure they are stable and cannot collapse if the scorpion burrows underneath)

Ceramic or plastic hides.

Decor: Keep decor simple. A few rocks or pieces of driftwood can enhance the arid look and provide anchor points or additional hiding spots. Avoid complex setups that make maintenance or observation difficult.

Temperature and Humidity

Temperature: P. transvaalicus prefers warm, arid conditions mimicking its natural habitat.

Maintain a temperature gradient between 75-85°F (24-29°C) on the warm side during the day.

Nighttime temperatures can drop slightly, but should ideally remain above 70°F (21°C).

Heating can be provided by a heat mat or heat cable placed on the side or back of the enclosure, never underneath if using a deep substrate layer as this can dry it out too quickly and potentially burn the scorpion if it burrows down. Always use a thermostat to regulate the temperature and prevent overheating.

Humidity: This species requires low humidity. The substrate should be kept dry. Spot clean any damp areas instantly. While they need a shallow water dish, the overall enclosure atmosphere should be arid. Good ventilation is important.

Lighting

Parabuthus transvaalicus is primarily nocturnal. Special lighting is not required. Standard room light is sufficient. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, as this can quickly overheat the tank.

Water

Provide a small, shallow water dish (such as a bottle cap or reptile water dish) for your scorpion. While they derive much of their moisture from prey, a water source should always be available. Some individuals may rarely use it, but it's important to offer.

Feeding

Food: Offer appropriately sized live feeder insects such as crickets, roaches (e.g., dubia roaches), mealworms, or superworms. The size of the prey should be roughly no larger than the scorpion's carapace (body length).

Frequency:

Juveniles: Feed 1-2 times per week.

Adults: Feed once every 7-14 days, depending on the size of the meal and the scorpion's condition. Observe your scorpion for signs of being well-fed (plump abdomen) and adjust feeding accordingly. Do not overfeed.

Prey Removal: Always remove uneaten prey items within 24 hours to prevent them from bothering or potentially harming the scorpion, especially during molting.

Handling: Do Not Handle!

Let's reiterate: Do not handle Parabuthus transvaalicus. They are not pets for interaction; they are fascinating display animals.

They are defensive and will readily sting if threatened.

They can spray venom accurately, which is extremely dangerous if it gets into eyes or mucous membranes. Eye protection (safety glasses) is recommended during maintenance.

Handling causes stress to the scorpion.

If you absolutely must move the scorpion for essential cleaning or rehousing (use extreme caution and ideally have assistance), use long, sturdy forceps to gently coax it into a secure catch container. Never attempt to pick it up directly.

Molting

Like all arachnids, scorpions grow by molting their exoskeleton. Signs of impending molt include refusing food, becoming lethargic, and sometimes developing a darker, duller color.

Ensure the environment is stable during this time.

Provide adequate substrate depth for burrowing, as some scorpions may create a molting chamber.

Do not disturb the scorpion during the molting process or immediately afterward. The new exoskeleton is soft and easily damaged. Wait at least a week (or until the scorpion is fully hardened and active again) before offering food.

Health Considerations

A healthy P. transvaalicus is active (during its preferred hours), has a plump abdomen (unless nearing a molt), and reacts readily to stimuli (like prey introduction).

Mites: Can occur in overly damp or dirty conditions. Ensure the enclosure is kept clean and dry.

Dehydration: Rare in proper setups but can happen if no water is available or the environment is too hot and dry without access to moisture from food.

Injury: Prevent falls by securing the lid and avoiding tall decor the scorpion can fall from.

Conclusion

Keeping a Parabuthus transvaalicus is a rewarding experience for the dedicated and experienced keeper. Their impressive size, thick tails, and often striking coloration make them captivating captives. However, their medical significance and defensive capabilities mean that safety, secure housing, and responsible husbandry are not optional – they are paramount. By providing the correct arid environment, appropriate feeding, and most importantly, respecting their dangerous nature by avoiding handling, you can safely appreciate this remarkable scorpion.